ARRIVAL IN NEPAL

On approach to Kathmandu, the rugged snowy peaks of the Himalaya sparkle above the horizon of green hills protecting the Kathmandu valley. A magnificent sight marred only by thick fumes pouring from open fires and smoke stacks.

Traffic
The traffic problems of the city, and I suspect of the country, are an inadequate road system in 1)quantity for the rapidly growing amount of traffic and 2) structural quality so that what little is available is rather more a detriment than a conduit for travel. Walking is a nightmare of avoiding both the torn up sidewalks, if there are any, and the vehicles whose sole goal has nothing to do with extending one's longevity. The roads can not be widened and no attempt has been made to repair or repave them. 99% of the hordes of careening motorcycles are driven by young men without either licenses or regard. They could well be seconds for any scene from Mad Max.

The city is filthy in litter, plastic bags, dust, and pollution. Foul smells of organic waste abound, mixed with chemical irritants. In short it is not a friendly city, liberally spiked with all manner of difficulties in getting from point A to point B. However, the home Dr.Chakra Pandey and his family have offered me is off the main street in as quiet and peaceful a setting as one can imagine in a noisy Asian city. (Night dogs still require ear plugs.) At 06:00, first light, pigeons and house crows awaken along with a 20 second lilting wake-up song by an unseen bulbul type of bird, who rouses the sparrows who chirp off and on all day. Mango, persimmon, orange, papaya, and kumquat trees line the garden parterres along with clay pots of marigolds and chrysanthemums. Cannonballs of pommelos hang from a neighbor's tree over one wall. The temperature hovers around 55-60° at night, warming in the sun to a cool bright 75°.

I have been given a pleasant sunny upstairs bedroom in a house adjacent to the Pandey's, but on their compound. The first floor's spacious entrance room has little furniture and its smooth wood floor and open space allow an exuberant, daily Tai Chi ritual. All in all a perfect place.

Fitted for Shalwar-Kamis
I thought I needed a shalwar/kamis, something a little lighter, a bit dressier than my expedition gear. I was also looking for clothing for warmer weather than the one I imagined from snowy Montana, and chosen with the thought of surviving a Himalayan December. I pictured some cheap clothes, but in the ready made stores there wasn't much without beads and sequins or gold glitter. The local tailor has pre-made sets of color and pattern coordinated cloth pieces suitable for top and bottom and a shawl that are then made up in the style one chooses from a picture book. I picked out all the components and dimensions for my sartorial masterpiece-- a round neck opening large enough so there's no need for a zip or buttons, long sleeves, kamis length to below knee, shalwar of thin legs bunched up at the ankles and elastic waist band. The picture book showing the various styles looked like the book I used in Sierra Leone for a wedding party dress--a mix and match guide of possibilities. It was quite exciting creating what I think I wanted, though I'm sure that when I try it on, I will find something not quite right. Sapana, Chakra's accommodating wife, did all the talking for the transaction. How wonderful to watch someone who understands how to get what she wants.

Nepali style Anarchy
Thurs afternoon, the day I arrived, 5 Nov, a bus ran into 3 people buying radishes beside the street, killing them. The driver ran away, knowing he'd be held accountable to some sort of public "justice". People destroyed the bus (similar to killing the messenger) and a big demonstration took over the street which the police closed, snarling traffic for the next 24 hours.

The hospital in Dharan was recently closed for a week because a patient's relatives had beat up some doctors when something untoward happened to the patient. Chakra attributed it to the general anarchy, since the state offers no security or justice and the hospital can't provide it either because the hired guards aren't trained, have no authority, and run away when trouble starts. Like the bus driver.

Friday the road to Chakra's hospital was closed, even ambulances weren't allowed to pass the barricades. One of the servants drove us until we couldn't go further because of a traffic jam, so we walked among the stalled cars, over a bridge, down a dirt embankment, up and around to the hospital. From the orthopaedic clinic windows I watched demonstrators march on the street, shouting slogans. The road was finally opened late in the afternoon.